When I Finally Decided to Visit Peru
When I finally decided to visit Peru, I knew one thing: I wanted to hike with the company that Mark Adams, my friend and fellow travel writer, used for his book Turn Right at Machu Picchu. The stories he shared about his treks and what he learned on them convinced me that those were the people I wanted to show me around the Sacred Valley, so I might have my own pretend Indiana Jones moment: me, the wilderness, and my local guide.
Booking with Amazonas Explorer
So I emailed Amazonas Explorer, which focuses on private tours as well as off-the-beaten-path hikes in the Sacred Valley, to see if it would be possible to book something. While a private tour was more expensive than a regular group trip, I liked the idea of going at my own pace and having my own guide. Plus, when the owner, Paul, said a few people from the Amazonas office would be joining, it made me feel like I would be hiking with locals rather than just on some tourist-focused group outing.
The Hike to Machu Picchu
I wasn’t going to do the full Inca Trail, as I didn’t have enough time, didn’t feel fit enough, and absolutely hate camping. Instead, I opted for the famed KM104 hike, which starts at the marker by that name (104km from Cusco, an exit point on the train line from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu) and takes you through the Sacred Valley and a few Incan sites before linking up with the main Inca Trail that leads into Machu Picchu.
A 4:30am Pickup
“We’ll be there to pick you up at your hotel in Cusco at 4:30am, so we can catch the train,” wrote Paul over email.
A 4:30am pickup meant a 3:30am wake-up, and there was absolutely no way I wanted to do that.
“Can we go later?” I asked. “It’s just me after all.”
“Nope, we have to get the 6:45am train from Ollantaytambo, which is two hours from Cusco. And we can’t be late. We’ve got a strict timetable. Sorry!”
But there was an option B!
Arriving in Ollantaytambo
Rather than wake up in the middle of the night, I decided to head to Ollantaytambo the day before so I could sleep in until just before the train….because while Indiana Jones might be able to find artifacts on little sleep, I can’t.
Once a major Incan city, Ollantaytambo is located on the Urubamba River against high mountains, on which extensive ruins offer beautiful views of the valley. Seeing them seemed like a better option than waking up early. So I arrived in the midafternoon to explore the ruins, pack my day bags, and relax before the hike.
(Tip: Don’t go when I did! Arrive early to avoid the afternoon crowds coming from Cusco. And bring a lot of sunscreen as there is no shade! The ruins are really beautiful though and give you a taste of what is to come.)
The Hike
After waking up at the more reasonable hour of 5:45am, I met my guide, Efrain, and we boarded the train toward Machu Picchu so we could get off at KM104 and link up with the two others from the Amazonas office who were joining us.
As the train snaked through the valley, the staff served us coca tea to help with the altitude. It’s a traditional indigenous remedy for altitude sickness in the region (it’s also the plant from which cocaine is derived). Not only does it really work but it has a very earthy, herbal taste that I had grown to love.
As I sipped my tea, Efrain and I went over the logistics of the next two days together while we got to know each other. A native to the area, he’d been a guide for over twenty years. Funny and really knowledgeable about the region’s flora, fauna, and Incan history, he used to lead a lot of group tours but now mostly does private ones with Amazonas.
The Journey to Machu Picchu
When we got off the train, we met up with Katy and Lourdes, our hiking companions. Katy had hiked this route many times, having been a guide before, but it was Lourdes’s first time, and she was as nervous about being physically able to do it as I was.
We checked in with the ticket control and then started our 12km (7.5-mile) hike up to Machu Picchu. The first leg followed the Urubamba River, which snakes through the entirety of the Sacred Valley, eventually flowing around Machu Picchu and north before combining with a few other rivers. Decades ago, its powerful waters were diverted near the ancient city to create a hydroelectric power plant that provides most of the electricity to the region.
The sun beat down on us as we hiked up the exposed side of the mountain, the only sounds our conversation and the river below. The climb was a continual path upward, punctuated by even steeper ascents and stairs, with various Incan trails and ruins along the way.
Machu Picchu
“Anyone who wants to do the hike into Machu Picchu but doesn’t want to do the full trek has to hike this path,” Efrain explained.
“So these tour groups will be with us the entire way?” I asked as I watched one pass us on one of our breaks.
“Yup! And likely tomorrow if they are visiting the ruins too!”
We might need to sacrifice to the gods,” joked Katy as she noticed my nervousness. “Maybe that will help!”
Efrain, turning to Lourdes, said, “It might need to be you, since we can’t sacrifice Matt!” causing us all to laugh.
“Okay, well, I’m gonna run, as I can’t miss this. You’ve all seen it before,” I shouted to him as I ran the final part of the trail to the Sun Gate.
I got there just in time to behold Machu Picchu before the clouds rolled in. It was a magical view. There it was, the goal of a lifetime, a sight I had dreamed about for so long! It was as wondrous as I thought it would be. And even though the clouds hid the mountains and some of the structures, there was still an ethereal feeling.
About the Tour Company
Amazonas Explorer mostly runs private tours, but it does have some larger group offerings. So whether you’re with a group or just want to go alone, check out the company. (It is featured in the book Turn Right at Machu Picchu, which is why I chose it.) It also runs trips to other ruins in the region and will take you places most tourists don’t go.
Conclusion
I finally saw one of the most iconic sites in the history of humanity. It really felt surreal to have been there. And the hike, though hard, was also incredible. As I closed my eyes to rest on the way back, I was thrilled I finally got to see something I’ve been wanting to see ever since I was a kid.
Logistical Tips and Tricks
Book Your Flight
Use Skyscanner to find a cheap flight. They are my favorite search engine because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned.
Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld as they have the biggest inventory and best deals. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels.
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:
FAQs
Q: What is the best time to visit Machu Picchu?
A: The best time to visit Machu Picchu is during the dry season, from May to September.
Q: How long does it take to hike to Machu Picchu?
A: The hike to Machu Picchu typically takes around 4-5 hours, depending on your physical condition and the route you take.
Q: What is the best way to book a tour to Machu Picchu?
A: The best way to book a tour to Machu Picchu is to go through a reputable tour operator, such as Amazonas Explorer, which offers private tours and off-the