How is Oud Incorporated into Fragrances?
Oud is commonly used as the base of a perfume’s olfactive pyramid to "enhance woody notes and add depth to the fragrance," says Christie. It’s mostly incorporated with other woody notes like sandalwood, patchouli, or vetiver (although it plays really well with musk and amber too).
The Power of Oud
Mona Kattan, the Dubai-based founder of Kayali fragrances, says she feels confident and empowered every time she wears an oud fragrance. Voelkl believes oud can add a level of mystery to a scent.
Oud and Its Combinations
For such an aggressive note, oud is surprisingly versatile and great for layering with other scent profiles, says Kattan, whose brand has combined oud with vanilla, tobacco, rose, and a coffee accord. It pairs beautifully with rose, in particular, creating a seductive contrast with the flower’s delicate, dewy scent.
Examples of Oud Combinations
- Dior Oud Ispahan Eau de Parfum
- Hermès Oud Alezan Eau de Parfum
- Molton Brown Rose Dunes Eau de Parfum
Oud and Its Combinations (Continued)
Oud’s dark earthiness enhances lighter citrus and aromatic notes, helping them smell more "alive and effervescent," says Christie. You’ll often see bergamot and oud brought together, as in Juliette Has a Gun Another Oud and Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot Cologne Intense, and niche brands have started experimenting with oud and herbaceous ingredients, such as DS & Durga Notorious Oud (which combines the note with lavender absolute), Parfums de Marly Haltane (clary sage), and Chantecaille Oud Fumé (rosemary).
Oud in Other Fragrance Formats
The oud frenzy in the West is pretty limited to personal fragrance, but that doesn’t mean ancillary oud products aren’t out there—you just have to know where to look. Wood chips scented with perfume oil, called "bakhoor" in Arabic, have been used in the Middle East for centuries, including agarwood chips soaked in oud. Kattan created bakhoor versions of her Kayali Oudgasm collection, as well as a Rose Oud Hair Mist.
Conclusion
Oud is a powerful and versatile fragrance note, offering a unique combination of earthy, woody, and sweet notes. Its ability to enhance and complement other scents makes it a popular choice among perfumers, and its rarity and exclusivity have contributed to its high value. Whether used alone or blended with other notes, oud is sure to continue to be a staple in the world of perfumery.
FAQs
Q: What is oud?
A: Oud is a type of resinous, woody fragrance note extracted from the agarwood tree.
Q: What is agarwood?
A: Agarwood is the heartwood of the agar tree, which is infected by a specific type of fungus that causes it to produce a fragrant, resinous substance.
Q: Is oud expensive?
A: Yes, oud is considered a luxury ingredient due to its rarity and the difficulty of harvesting it.
Q: Can oud be found in other fragrance formats?
A: Yes, oud can be found in a variety of formats, including hand soap, body lotion, and hair mist.
Q: Why is oud so popular?
A: Oud is popular due to its unique, complex scent, which is both earthy and woody, and its ability to enhance and complement other scents.